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Sultan Murad Pure Parfum 30ml
Sultan Murad Pure Parfum 30ml
It’s not just its scent that’s unique in the oud world, even the resin formation is…
After the insane legwork leading up to the project, in late 2013 we started distilling the first oud in the Sultan Series: Sultan Murad.
It’s the oud that put New Guinea oud on the map for good. For the first time, you could dive into the aquamarine waters of oud so beautifully herbaceous, so therapeutic, so virgin jungle aboriginal that I deeply regret not having spared even a single drop for myself – each of the Sultan Series ouds was extremely limited.
Crafting a perfume around that virgin New Guinea aquamarine aroma had been on my mind for years. Oud Sultan Murad was practically a perfume unto itself, so you can’t escape the question: What if I could create a spray rendition?
As everyone knows, quality New Guinea ouds are exceptionally rare. Any New Guinea oud, for that matter. The wood was difficult and expensive to acquire a decade ago, and we’ve tried hard in the following years to get the same grade and undertake more such distillations, but to no avail.
What we did do with the precious New Guinea harvests we had was to turn them into the pinnacle of the profile, i.e. distill them Oriscent style. The result gives you an oud that takes all the hard work and logistical nightmares of distilling a quality New Guinea and – intensifies it exponentially!
Port Moresby doesn’t just give the fragrance a piercing, green kinamic quality, but I can’t think of an oud that would better suit the cool-green herbaceous profile, punctuated by capsicum, water lilies, apple and rose, and oud galore.
It’s not just its scent that’s unique in the oud world, even the resin formation is so unique they’re among the most prized possessions in the EO archive. For example, I’ve been holding these Port Moresby pieces for years:
Nobody transports incense-grade New Guinea filarias by hand from way down under all the way up to Taiwan. Nobody spends two months distilling that wood according to parameters nobody else knows about…
I could go on, but it’s not about the Herculean effort it took to distill the peerless Port Moresby, but the result is that you now have the chance to smell how, from first sniff to the last flicker of it on your skin the next day, Port Moresby unfolds its green kyara heart. There is no development. Just pure radiance. Dancing stillness. No great first note that then becomes another thing and then something else. Just pure kyara-green, like the smoke.
Now, take that piercing kinamic green and deck it out with caraway, thicken it with beeswax, and florify the oud with violets.
Port Moresby is part of a Papuan Trio that makes up over 30% of the composition (in case you thought I’m only using oud as a buzzword), which not only gives you an authentic NG oud aroma, but is a strong enough chord to impact the accompanying aromatics.
TOP
Green Tea
Green Mandarin
Caraway
Rosemary
HEART
Violet
Tuberose
Blue Lotus
Turkish Rose
BASE
Port Moresby (Oriscent)
Wild Vintage Papuan Oud
Green Papua
Ambergris
Beeswax
Vetiver
Musk
It’s a challenge to find, and especially to compose a ‘fresh’ frag that’s also got plenty of body. Fresh notes are typically fleeting, which is why mainstream perfumes have to compensate with synthetic carriers and fixatives to let them linger, which in turn kills their natural freshness and leaves you with a drydown you can’t wait to wash off.
Sultan Murad is beautifully crisp, fresh green – yet thick and lush thanks to the oud that’s present in the very first notes. Violet, blue lotus and tuberose are all also ‘thick’, robust, and creamy florals that add to the density of the cooling oceanic New Guinea fragrance.
With plenty of musk and ambergris to fix the brew and add lift, you’ll enjoy the peppered mandarin freshness continuously, while that sensual kyara-infused New Guinea glaze works its crystalline magic to soothe you with wafts of that fusion’s narcotique through the day.


