Habana Ambar 30ml
Habana Ambar 30ml
Tibetan Musk and Tonkin Musk are entirely different perfumes, while Mongolian Musk and Private Blend, too, are worlds apart. While each of them is totally distinct from the next, what they share in common is showcasing different facets of musk – or, more accurately, how fantastically unique the impact of musk can be on a composition.
Same goes for Ottoman Ambergris and Jamaican Ambergris – two totally different perfumes. And you might not have guessed it, but ambergris is such a crucial component in it that EO1, in my book, falls squarely in the “ambergris perfume” category.
So, what makes an ambergris perfume? And how do you get a Cuban amber perfume?
A spritz spreads the bold aroma of cured tobacco leaves, but it doesn’t instantly ground the fragrance in an earthy, smoky profile as you’d expect. Instead, the sundried cigar leaves are marinated in a salty glaze lending a subtle marine quality that’s lush and fresh.
Tobacco adds depth to a perfume, but you don’t necessarily want it to be the main note. Besides, how many tobacco frags that are basically generic solifores?
Because tobacco, especially a thick, quality extract, can dominate and drown out many notes, the challenge is to capture notes that are not too subtle or too loud in a sensual aroma decorated with notes that enhance its natural facets… think honey or hay or a dry, earthy coumarin spice-like veneer.
The problem is that ambergris can act just like it. Too much ambergris can quickly choke a fragrance and the result isn’t what you may think – you won’t simply end up with an ambergris-heavy fragrance. Nope. If you don’t know what you’re doing you’d easily end up with a grand mess; a cloying sandy dryness akin to dust. Or a muddy bland bleh.
A fraghead’s wish is for these two alpha aromatics to bring the best each has to offer and create something even better. For ambergris to imbue the tobacco with its oceanic muskiness to contrast the dark smokiness, while at the same time acting as a projector to ensure it leaves a trail of lasting sillage.
Obviously, from the perfumer’s POV, this dance needs to extend throughout with all aromatics. To have both contrasting and complementing notes; a whisper of juniper berry adds a crisp, green edge that hints at the freedom of the open sea; lavender’s bite for balance; vanilla to moisten and sweeten, and civet to do the same… but also discreetly play into the animalic role of ambergris (which many forget about)……
…… The tranquil cool of vetiver brightened by the fresh resinous tones of fir to evoke the fresh vitality of the forest. And the irreplaceable beauty of rose and jasmine that drives tobacco wild.
TOP
Siberian Fir
Lavender
Mango
HEART
Rose Absolute
Jasmine Sambac
Juniper Berry
Plumeria
BASE
Tobacco
Ambergris
Bourbon Vanilla
Wild Papuan Oud
Aged Sandalwood
Oakmoss
Vetiver
Civet
