CP Raspberry Pure Parfum 30ml
CP Raspberry Pure Parfum 30ml
When it comes to oud and raspberry, there’s one region that immediately pops to mind…
Many people are wondering about a one-off semi-B we offered some time ago, called “VD Raspberry”, which was a playful, raspberrified edition of Crime & Punishment.
Crime & Punishment itself is an extremely elaborate composition, so the idea to flesh it out a bit more in VD Raspberry was exciting but also challenging. People love C&P for so many reasons, so it’s difficult to decide which facet to explore.
With this edition, though – it was easy.
VD Rasberry was built on an edition of C&P that had a lush sandalwood veneer; an edition many loved the most.
You may be familiar with rose-oud perfumes, but what about rose-sandalwood? (And how this combo makes the bed for a lush fusion of… berry.)
Imagine the complex, ever-unfolding scent of Crime & Punishment where the sandalwood facet is tuned up just high enough for it to stand out. And to then beautify that facet with the only rose duo of its kind that I know of…
CP Raspberry features my in-house blend of Japanese rose absolute and otto, which were extracted specifically for us. It’s not only what the addition of the rose does to the overall profile, but also to the overall diffusiveness of each spritz.
I could have stopped here and called it a day. But that’s the fine line between making something to sell, and making something in order to… make history. That’s why you’re getting this rosified santalum C&P turned into a regal, decked-out oud-rose symphony.
(I’ll let the fact that by doing so this perfume qualifies as a bonafide ghalia sink in for a minute.)
Oud-musk symphony how?
First, I didn’t mention that my in-house Japanese rose duet is added on top of an increased concentration of the previous editions of C&P. And so is this oud…
This is the first time I’m using or talking about this extremely precious oud. You may remember the insane musk-infused Vietnamese oud that gave Notes From Underground its distinct (and polarizing!) profile…
Aroha Mysaku is that oud, reincarnated in Cambodi form. That it was distilled in our custom distillery in Cambodia exclusively from a specific strand of oud chips collected from jungles in Pursat, Pailin, and Koh Kong over many months should tell you about the quality we’re talking about. But then we took things even further.
Along with its brother distillation, this brew has been steeping in super old Tonkin musk grains for… I’m not exactly sure anymore – it’s been a few years.
I chose this oud specifically for its red old-school Cambodi profile, and it oozes into every other aromatic in the perfume.
Now that you’ve erected this succulent core of rose, musk, sandalwood, and oud – effectively a classic ghalia at heart – let’s get avant garde!
Raspberry.
Japanese rugosa fused with frankincense and ylang-ylang that boasts the added umami of orange blossom’s thick zest rubbed into a paste of blue lotus’ buttery warmth, all riding a chariot of Cambodian oud, Tonkin musk, and ambergris – the perfect base for an olfactory raspberry cocktail.
Most raspberry (also strawberry) perfumes I’ve tried give off an unbearable cloying smell to me (could be the synthetic kind they all share). The challange here was to use natural raspberry in a way to fuse – not fight – with its fellow aromatics… not dominate and stiffen the scent – and, most importantly, not produce that cloying effect.
Raspberry is a very tricky ingredient to work with. It’s actually one of the ingredients I’ve had to go through a lot of trial and error with over the years.
Like civet or certain citruses – specially a combination of those! – can totally kill a fragrance, raspberry is at once extremely tenacious and also interacts uniquely with different aromatics, so the more complex the composition (and CP Raspberry is super complex) the greater the risk.
You don’t want a cheap raspberry lipstick perfume, but rather an elegant natural raspberry-themed aroma. You want to enjoy the scent of raspberry in the profile, while at the same time smelling the effect, not unlike the use of musk, it has on other aromatics, and vice versa.
CP Raspberry gives you exactly this cocktail of rose red, lily blue, yuzu orange, Mysaku red, ylang ylang mingled with mimosa, as jasmine and cassie all vape through a prism of the strong shot of oud and musk to form a steady tone that lasts for hours – reflecting that delectable raspberry accord.
And all of it comes decked out onto a bed dripping wet with creamy sandalwood.
CP Raspberry gives you a rose-santalum amber-musk-raspberry brew with a fat lacquering of OUD oozing into its creamy core to make the sandalwood facets of the perfume even more delectable
